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| Winter |
Northern
hemisphere .... December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox
(around 21st March)
Southern hemisphere
... June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd
September)
|
Early
Winter
Mid
Winter
Late
Winter |
The
ornamental garden - Early Winter
Finish the winter digging providing the ground isn't frozen. On
flower borders, sprinkle a thick layer of compost or manure over the
soil and fork it in between clumps of plants. Providing the soil is
not too frozen container grown, bare-root shrubs can be planted in
well dug soil, to which plenty of organic matter has been added.
Knock off any heavy snow from conifer branches to prevent damage due
to loading. Any unwieldy, damaged or diseased stems on trees and
shrubs should be cut back with sharp secateurs or a pruning saw to
allow more air and light to penetrate. Large cuts should be
protected with a wound sealant. Follow pruning with a winter wash.
Check biennial plants such as sweet william, wallflower and
polyanthus after spells of cold, frosty weather for signs of
lifting. They may need firming in.
Fruit
and vegetables - Early Winter
If there is still rough digging to be done, add some bulky organic
matter or lime to the soil. This exposes the clods to frost and
allows a naturally forming tilth. Begin growing some vegetables in
the protection of the greenhouse or conservatory. Hardy varieties of
radish can be sown under cloches in most areas and many winter hardy
species such as Brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, parsnips and
spinach will be ready for harvest. Cover rhubarb crowns to encourage
early growth. Container-grown or bare-rooted fruit can be planted at
this time of the year as long as the soil and weather are suitable.
Tree and shrub planting compost placed in the base of the planting
hole will give a good start for outdoor plants in cold soil. If the
plants arrive when the soil is waterlogged or covered in snow,
either heel them in to a sheltered, drier position or keep them in a
frost-free place until conditions improve. Pruning can be continued
except on stone fruits. Cut to an outward pointing bud and aim to
keep the trees and bushes open in the centre. Cut out crossing and
touching branches and any that are diseased, damaged or dying. Burn
all cuttings.
The
lawn - Early Winter
The weather at this time of the year is likely to limit the work
that can be done on established lawns, and to avoid compaction, the
less traffic across the surface the better. Aeration of wet areas by
spiking can still go ahead provided that the soil is not too wet -
first sweep off remaining leaves and debris. It is a convenient time
to lay lawn turf, making use of an otherwise quiet period and also
seasonal rainfall. Check that the ground is weed free before the
turf is laid - it's easier than weeding afterwards.
Houseplants
- Early Winter
Move delicate
plants from cold window-sills at night and bring them into the
centre of the room. Poinsettias should be kept at a temperature of
about 13ºC (55ºF) out of draughts and watered as the
surface of the compost becomes dry. Feed every 7- 14 days whilst the
plant remains in flower. Cyclamen soon collapse if placed in warm,
centrally heated rooms. A cool, light position is best such as a
hallway or porch. Water from the base keeping the crown of the plant
dry to avoid rotting. Avoid overfeeding as this results in soft,
leafy growth at the cost of flower quality - once every 14 days is
enough. Remove dead flowers by tugging the flower stem sharply from
the base. This avoids leaving the base of the stem attached to the
crown which can quickly lead to decay. Mixed bowls usually contain a
wide variety of plants of different species which are often
eye-catching when group planted, but with differing growing
requirements and various needs. Flowering species such as Begonias,
Saintpaulia and Kalanchoe will require a brightest position without
being detrimental to the foliage plants with which they are commonly
mixed. Often there is little or no drainage in the bowl and so
watering should reflect this. Forced azaleas are one of the few
plants which thrive on regular soakings of rainwater. Generally,
there should always be a clearly visible dark water mark, 2.5cm up
the stem from the level of the compost. As with cyclamen, azaleas
like to be cool at all times.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Early Winter
The heated greenhouse or conservatory offers plenty of
opportunities for early sowings to be made in trays or pots. Lilies,
Pelargoniums, Freesias and Begonia can all be sown in gentle heat.
Carnations and Dianthus sown now will flower in the summer and make
ideal pot or border plants. In the cool 4ºC (40ºF) or even
unheated structure, sowings of many vegetables such as broad beans,
lettuces, leeks, and onions can be made for an early harvest. To
save on fuel costs insulate the greenhouse with bubble plastic and
plants requiring extra care can be insulated with fleece on cold
nights. Fan heaters keep air moving but ventilators can be opened on
mild days. Cyclamen can be raised from seed in a good quality
compost at 15ºC (60ºF). Germination usually takes between
four to eight weeks. When the plantlets are large enough to handle,
re-pot in a multi -purpose compost and feed with a high potash plant
food after 6 weeks.
General
- Early Winter
Regularly check plant ties which often loosen and wear in winter
storms. Check fixings and wires of shrubs, clematis, honeysuckle and
climbing roses. |
| Winter |
Northern
hemisphere .... December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox
(around 21st March)
Southern hemisphere
... June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd
September)
|
Early
Winter
Mid
Winter
Late
Winter |
The
ornamental garden - Mid Winter
There will still be
heavy frosts in many areas and so trimming and pruning are best
delayed until the full extent of any dieback is seen. However the
borders can be tidied of any dead material and the soil forked and
raked over ready for sowing and planting within the next few months.
Feed established trees, shrubs, hedges and flowering perennials with
a general fertilizer like growmore to help them get off to a good
start. Many herbaceous perennials can be divided now whilst they are
dormant. Sow a few hardy annuals outside under cloches to provide
early summer flowers and blooms for cutting.
Fruit
and vegetables - Mid Winter
Vegetables such
as broad beans, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, radish, peas, spinach and
turnips can be sown under cloches. Parsnips can be sown without
protection - a canker resistant strain such as Tender and True or
White Gem should be selected. If you grow seed potatoes it's best to
buy them as soon as they appear in the shops - some varieties soon
sell out. To start the potatoes sprouting stand them in boxes
indoors with plenty of daylight. Give fruit trees and bushes a base
dressing of growmore. To help suppress weeds and retain moisture
apply a mulch to a depth of 5cm. The pruning of established fruit
trees should now be completed. Autumn fruiting raspberries can be
pruned to ground level and others cut back to a bud above the top
support wire.
The
lawn - Mid Winter
Turfing of new areas or the repair of established lawns can
continue providing that the ground is not too wet or frozen. Spiking
would benefit any patches which are poorly drained.
Houseplants
- Mid Winter
Light levels will be
relatively low at this time of year so keep plants near to windows,
but remember to move plants from cold window sills at night before
drawing the curtains as the temperature behind the glass can reach
freezing point. The plants may begin to demand more water and a
light feed could be given. In heated rooms regular misting should
continue. Be aware that the fumes produced by gas fires can be
harmful to many species. Plant are often received as presents at
this time of the year. The most popular are cyclamen, poinsettias,
azaleas and pot chrysanthemums. Although many are thrown away after
flowering, some can be kept and nurtured. Cyclamen should have
watering and feeding reduced once flowering has finished. When the
foliage has died off the pot is placed in a cool position such as a
shed or under the greenhouse bench until early summer when
re-potting takes place.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Mid Winter
Peas, broad beans,
lettuces and summer cabbages can be sown under glass, for planting
outside next month. Early sowings of some bedding can be made now in
a heated environment and where there is enough protected space to
keep early plants safe until the frosts are over. In unheated
structures or where space is limited, delay sowing for at least a
month. Strawberries will fruit early if kept in a cold frame from
early autumn and brought into a little heat. Chrysanthemum stools
and dahlias should be brought into growth for cuttings. To do this
they will require plenty of light and a temperature of about 7ºC
(45ºF) for chrysanthemums, 16ºC (60ºF) for dahlias.
Keep glass clean to make the most of available light - a 10% loss in
light is a 10% loss in growth.
General
- Mid Winter
Ensure that pots and
trays have been sterilised and that mechanical equipment is well
serviced in preparation for the new season.
|
| Winter |
Northern
hemisphere .... December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox
(around 21st March)
Southern hemisphere
... June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd
September)
|
Early
Winter
Mid
Winter
Late
Winter |
The
ornamental garden - Late Winter
Daffodils will benefit
from a handful of general fertilizer raked in around each clump.
Pick off the dead flower heads regularly. Annual bedding plants such
as cornflower, calendula, candytuft, godetia and Californian popy can be sown
directly into their flowering positions as soon as the soil is dry
enough to be workable. Flowering species generally prefer a sunny
position. Herbaceous plants can also be planted in the warmer
regions. If some plants begin to shoot early, don't be tempted to
remove protective coverings too soon from sensitive half-hardy
species, although covers may need loosening to avoid crushing new
growth. Prune rose bushes as soon as the weather improves, cutting
stems down to just above a developing bud.
Fruit
and vegetables - Late Winter
Direct sowings
of many vegetables such as onions, radish, peas, broad
beans, leeks, celery and parsnips can continue now provided
the soil is not too wet. If the weather is fairly warm plant first
early seed potatoes. Stone fruits can be pruned, this includes sour
cherries, peaches, plums and nectarines.
The
lawn - Late Winter
The lawn will soon begin to grow again and mowing can commence once
the grass is dry. Mower blades should be set high at first then
gradually lowered with subsequent cuts until the desired height is
reached. Spike the parts of the lawn that still suffer from poor
drainage. Weeds are best left until early spring before treating to
ensure the best results.
Houseplants
- Late Winter
Some of the old
compost can be teased away from cyclamen, along with any dead roots
and the plant re-potted in a slightly larger pot with fresh compost.
Watering is gradually increased as new growth emerges and feeding
can resume once growth is underway. Kept cool, moist and well lit,
the cyclamen should produce an abundance of flowers again by early
winter. Azaleas should be placed in a cool, frost free position once
flowering is over and watered freely. It is likely that the plant
will have been forced into a very small pot and so it is wise to
repot straight away using a low lime compost such as an ericaceous
mix. Pot chrysanthemums are unlikely to produce suitable pot plants
after initial flowering. However, they are often successful if
planted in the garden and treated as summer flowering herbaceous or
annual plants.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Late Winter
With the likelihood of
warmer days, remember to open ventilators whenever possible, making
the most of the opportunity to change the moist air in the structure
for dryer air from outside. Bedding plants sown indoors may now
require pricking out into trays and pots. Allow enough space for the
plants to grow on until the danger of frost has passed. Watering
should be carried out early in the day allowing enough time for
plants, paths etc. to dry before nightfall. Tomato and cucumber
seedlings may require potting on before planting.
General
- Late Winter
When buying plants,
choose wisely. It is always worth paying a little more for plants,
especially bulbs and soft fruit, as they are less likely to harbour
disease.
|
|
| Spring |
N hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
S hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
|
Early
Spring
Mid
Spring
Late
Spring |
The
ornamental garden - Early Spring
Dig up and divide overcrowded snowdrops and perennials and prepare
ground for summer bedding. Scatter fertilizer among border
perennials and roses and fork it into the soil. Wait until the late
frosts are over before planting out seedlings. Seeds such as
candytuft, larksur, lupins, nasturtium, wild flower mixtures and
poppy can be sown directly into the border where they are to flower
or for thinning and planting into final positions later. In good
weather sweet peas can also be sown outdoors now .
Fruit
and vegetables - Early Spring
This is a busy time for planting and sowing the vegetable garden.
Plant a succession of crops for a prolonged harvest. Carrots such as
Amsterdam forcing and early Nantes can be sown at intervals through
to early summer. Try and sow early crops in a sheltered position as
this gives some protection from carrot root fly. Other seeds to sow
include broad beans, broccoli, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, leeks,
onions, parsnips, lettuce, peas, radish and cauliflower. Germinating
seedlings need nitrogen for vigorous growth, phosphate for root
development and potash for hardiness. Therefore, one week before
sowing or planting incorporate growmore at a rate of 140g per square
metre to get plants off to a good start. Early potatoes should now
be planted. Plant fruit trees and bushes, prune raspberries and
mulch canes with compost or manure. Pollinate outdoor peaches,
nectarines and apricots and protect the blossom with muslin. Soak
the soil around newly planted fruit trees and mulch with manure.
The
lawn - Early Spring
Apply a nitrogenous spring and summer lawn fertilizer, combined
with a moss killer or weed killer, if required. The nitrogen content
will quickly encourage a lush green lawn. Rake and scarify the lawn
to remove moss and thatch. Mowing should be carried out as
necessary, the frequency will depend on the weather, but once a week
is ideal, keeping the blades at a medium height 2cm for a luxury
lawn and 2.5cm minimum for a utility lawn. Cutting too low at this
time of year can encourage moss growth and reduces the overall
vigour of the grass.
Houseplants
- Early Spring
Repot houseplants and give them a week or two in the greenhouse
before bringing back indoors. Heating encourages pests to keep
breeding throughout the year, check for aphids on indoor plants.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Early Spring
If the weather becomes warm during the day keep ventilators open as
often as possible to harden seedlings but don't allow them to dry
out. Cuttings of fuchsias, pelargoniums, chrysanthemums, geraniums
and helichrysum from stock plants can be taken and rooted in pots
or trays of compost after first dipping in rooting powder. Pinch out
shoot tips of fuchsias as they grow. Sow half hardy and tender
annuals in a heated propagator. Seeds of salads such as tomato,
lettuce, pepper and greenhouse cucumber, can be sown in preparation
for planting into growing bags or open ground in mid spring as the
greenhouse empties. Sow mustard and cress indoors. Peaches, apricots
and nectarines can be pollinated by dabbing the centre of each open
flower in turn with a small brush.
General
- Early Spring
Put stakes in to support tall growing perennial plants like lupins
and delphiniums. Net brassicas to protect them from pigeons.
|
| Spring |
N hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
S hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
|
Early
Spring
Mid
Spring
Late
Spring |
The
ornamental garden - Mid Spring
There is a wide choice of colourful plants for garden at this time
of year, especially for use in hanging baskets, pots and containers.
Even the smallest garden can be transformed into a blaze of colour.
The planting combinations in baskets are limitless, but the general
rule is one taller plant in the centre to give height and trailing
species positioned around the edge of the container to trail over
the side. Tubs and window boxes are planted in much the same way.
Plant up containers with half-hardy annuals when the risk of frosts
has passed and feed them each week with a liquid fertilizer. Choose
pelargoniums and petunias for containers in full sun that cannot be
watered regularly. Any shrubs that were not pruned to provide frost
protection, like hardy fuchsias and hydrangeas, can now be pruned.
Forsythia, ribes and other spring flowering shrubs can also be
pruned after they have bloomed. Propagate rhododendrons by layering.
Feed spring flowering bulbs now with a few handfuls of general
fertilizer.
Fruit
and vegetables - Mid Spring
Sow broad beans, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages,
carrots, cauliflowers, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuces, onions,
parsnips, peas, radishes, rocket, spinach, swedes, Swiss chard and
turnips outdoors. Protect young vegetable plants with netting.
Growing bags can be used to grow excellent crops of tomatoes - ideal
for sunny patios and balconies. Cucumbers, sweet peppers,
aubergines, courgettes, melons, radish, lettuce and culinary herbs
are also ideal for growing in bags for salads at home, if space is
at a premium. For growing tomatoes, either propagate plants from
seed, sown from mid winter to early spring, or purchase the plants
from a garden centre. When buying ready grown, ensure that you are
obtaining correctly labelled plants as the many different varieties
available may have very different growth characteristics,
requirements and taste. Whichever variety is chosen keep the plants
well watered in a sunny position until the first flower on the first
truss opens. After the second truss has set, gradually remove
surplus or old leaves from the base of the plants to allow the fruit
more space and light, but don't remove too many leaves at once.
Feeding will encourage higher yields of full-flavoured tomatoes.
Remove weeds from between strawberries and place cloches over a few
plants to produce an early crop. Prune damaged branches from fruit
trees and bushes.
The
lawn - Mid Spring
This is a ideal time to dispose of weeds in the lawn. Several
granular and liquid products will feed the lawn and kill the weeds
in one application. Now is the time to complete the sowing of grass
seed and laying of new turf. The frequency of mowing should be
increased depending on the finish and type of lawn required.
Houseplants
- Mid Spring
Take cuttings of indoor pot plants. Clean the leaves of foliage
plants. Wipe the leaves with moist cotton wool to remove dust, and
spray with a leaf shine.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Mid Spring
French beans can be sown in a patio tub. Plant out outdoor
tomatoes, courgettes, sweetcorn and melons. Sow half hardy and
tender annuals for summer bedding and greenhouse displays. Prick out
seedlings from earlier sowings and shade them in spells of bright
sunshine. Pot up overwintered cuttings of geraniums, fuchsia and
other half hardy perennials.
General
- Mid Spring
Shade seedlings in spells of bright sunlight. Keep compost
containers covered to stop the contents drying out. |
| Spring |
N hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
S hemisphere ...
Vernal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
|
Early
Spring
Mid
Spring
Late
Spring |
The
ornamental garden - Late Spring
Plant out your summer bedding, the long warm days are ideal for the
growth of cultivated plants. New perennials can be added to borders
if gaps have appeared, push in twiggy pea sticks around them if
needed and provide stakes for plants that need them. Feeding with
liquid fertilizer to keep pace with the demands of fast-growing
plants. These products give the plant all it needs whilst
controlling the amount and type of nutrients. A dressings of organic
matter in the form of garden compost or farmyard manure will improve
the water holding capacity of all but the coarsest sandy type soil.
Watering is a priority as the weather becomes warmer, particularly
for pot plants, patio containers and recently planted trees and
shrubs. Look out for greenfly, whitefly, caterpillars, mites, slugs
and snails which descend on the garden at this time of year, the use
of pesticides may be necessary. Cut back shrubs such as broom, Choisya,
Kerria and Ceanothus that have finished flowering. Also
cut back Aubrieta and deadhead rhododendrons. Overgrown
plants of Clematis montana can be cut back drastically, but
most clematis generally need just a light trimming of the side
shoots. Deadhead plants such as delphiniums as soon as flowering is
over, as this can encourage a second flush of bloom later in the
year. Lift tulip bulbs now if the foliage has withered.
Fruit
and vegetables - Late Spring
Sowing can continue in order to produce a succession of crops.
Carrots, beans, peas, endives, salsify, radish, lettuce should be
sown and greenhouse raised Brussels sprouts, broad beans, runner
beans, peas, onions, lettuces, leeks, cauliflowers and celery
planted out. Lettuce, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflowers can
also be sown on an indoor windowsill. Weeds should be hoed down as
they appear or treated with weed killer taking care not to splash
the leaves of cultivated species. Fruit trees, fruit bushes,
raspberry canes and strawberry plants can still be planted now.
Cover fruit bushes and strawberries with netting to protect the
ripening fruits from birds. Surround strawberry plants with straw or
strips of black polythene to keep the fruit clean and give the
plants a foliar feed. 'Stop' all new shoots on figs by removing the
tip after the fifth leaf. Thin out peaches to leave 22cm between
each.
The
lawn - Late Spring
The lawn should now be looking its best, but if there are bare
patches scatter some grass seed over the surface and scratch it in
with a rake or small hand fork. Aim to cut the lawn twice a week,
particularly on luxury lawns. However the height of cut should not
be lowered too much should conditions be dry or weeds and moss will
flourish at the expense of comparatively shallow rooted grasses.
Apply water as necessary through any dry periods, keeping the soil
moist to prevent any check in growth or loss of colour. Feeding can
continue but in hot conditions the use of a liquid preparation is
recommended to lessen the risk of scorching. Treat weeds as soon as
they appear with spray or spot treatment, or dig out individual
weeds like dandelions by hand.
Houseplants
- Late Spring
Houseplants require less maintenance if they are placed on a piece
of capillary matting draped in water.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Late Spring
Sow seeds of cinerarias, cyclamen and greenhouse primulas for
winter flowers. Sow marrows, courgettes, melons and sweetcorn for
planting out later. Plant onion sets in boxes of compost under glass
to go outdoors once they have formed small plants. Plant out leeks,
Brussels sprouts and winter cabbage. Where salads such as tomatoes,
peppers and cucumbers are being grown, little if any shade will be
needed until later in the season when things really hot up. Remove
side shoots from greenhouse grown tomatoes, cucumbers and melons. As
temperatures rise, shading of some kind might be necessary to
protect crops still in the greenhouse. However this should be light
at first, allowing for the occasional period of dull weather which
could occur. Greenhouse shading may take the form of a liquid which
is sprayed onto the glass through to ready-made blinds which can be
rolled up on dull days to make use of available light. Ventilation
is crucial to prevent temperatures inside the greenhouse or
conservatory from becoming too hot. Regular ventilation also allows
for the air to change inside the structure, cutting down the risk of
disease.
General
- Late Spring
Erect supports for runner beans. Provide wire or trellis supports
for new climbers and tie in the stems while they are young and
flexible. Down-pipes leading from the guttering of greenhouses,
conservatories, sheds, garages and the house itself are all
potential sources of good clean water which can be stored in butts
during times of water restrictions. Fit water butts with a cover to
prevent debris from entering on which water-borne diseases can
breed. Check hoses and tap fittings for leaks. |
|
| Summer |
N hemisphere ...
June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd September)
S hemisphere ...
December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox (around 21st March)
|
Early
Summer
Mid
Summer
Late
Summer |
The
ornamental garden - Early Summer
Continue planting summer bedding. Sow biennials outdoors in drills. Plant
autumn flowering bulbs such as crocus and amaryllis as soon as they
are available. Flowers and shrubs which are in bud, flower or fruit
will appreciate regular applications of high potash fertilizer.
Dahlias and chrysanthemums can be fed with tomato fertilizer.
Bedding plants, especially in baskets and tubs, should be
dead-headed to prolong flowering. Feed tubs and baskets each week.
Dig up and dry off tulip and hyacinth bulbs for replanting in
autumn. Reduce the height of the stems of perennials such as
campanula, delphinium, lupin, and oriental poppy to encourage more
flowers to form. Shorten the flower shoots on Cistus, Halimium
and Halimiumiocistus by two-thirds with shears or secateurs
and shorten old bearded irises by half. Large leafy plants such as
hostas look good in groupings of terra-cotta pots. Bearded iris can
be divided and replanted in groups. If spring flowering bulbs are
lifted, pot the largest and re-plant the smaller ones. Trim back
broom by shearing off half the new growth and prune the side shoots
of wisteria to 30cm long. Remove suckers from rose bushes. Water
perennials and recently planted trees and shrubs if no water has
fallen for several days.
Fruit
and vegetables - Early Summer
Sow beans, beetroot, carrots, endives, herbs, lettuces, spinach,
and Swiss chard. Peas and beans do not need much water
until they flower and produce pods, but give leaf vegetables plenty
of water at this time of the year. Most crops will be take advantage
of good growing conditions and develop very quickly. This is the
time for sowing and planting many winter vegetables too, such as
winter radish and turnip. Feed outdoor tomatoes, courgettes and cucumbers with a high
potash liquid or soluble powder fertilizer. Pull up soil around
leeks to blanch the stems and earth up potatoes. Summer pruning of
apples, pears, plums and gooseberries can be undertaken now. As
fruits ripen and swell, harvest regularly. Use props if necessary to
support heavily laden branches. Tie in blackberries and raspberries.
The
lawn - Early Summer
The lawn will require mowing and trimming every 7-10 days for a
utility lawn, twice a week for a luxury lawn. The height of cut
should be adjusted according to the prevailing conditions, raising
the blades during very hot weather to reduce drought related stress.
Feeding can continue weather permitting. If conditions are not too
hot and the lawn is actively growing, top up the nitrogen levels
with an application of lawn food. Spot treat weeds with a lawn weed
killer from a hand spray or watering can.
Houseplants
- Early Summer
Feed houseplants once a week. Cuttings can be taken from pot
plants.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Early Summer
Sow perennials such as delphiniums and biennials such as forget-me-nots and
wallflowers to produce plants for next year. Feed salads in growing
bags and the greenhouse borders regularly using a high potash
fertilizer to encourage heavier cropping. Tomatoes should have side
shoots removed regularly and be properly supported twisted round
string, or tied to canes with raffia. Bottom leaves can be removed
if they begin to shade the developing fruits. Thin out fruits on
greenhouse grapes. Ventilation will be essential and if very hot the
floor and benching should be damped down with water to keep the
atmosphere cool. The plants themselves should be sprayed early in
the morning or late in the evening once the heat of the day is over,
to keep humidity levels around the leaves as high as possible.
General
- Early Summer
Cut conifer, Lonicera and privet hedges. Lightly reshape
topiary. If screening is necessary use tall-growing bamboos.
|
| Summer |
N hemisphere ...
June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd September)
S hemisphere ...
December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox (around 21st March)
|
Early
Summer
Mid
Summer
Late
Summer |
The
ornamental garden - Mid Summer
Plant daffodil bulbs with a covering of 15 - 20cm of soil.
Semi-hardwood cuttings of heathers can be taken now. These should
ideally be rooted in a cold frame in boxes or trays filled with seed
and cutting compost. Cuttings can also be taken from many herbs
including lavender, rosemary, hyssop and mint and planted in
multi-purpose compost. At the same time keep some herbs back for
drying. Roses should be deadheaded as soon as the flowers are past
their best. Disbud any large-flowered dahlias and chrysanthemums to
produce larger blooms on a single stem. Work in fertilizer around
perennials and shrubs. Everlasting flowers can be cut now and hung
upside down in a dry place. Take cuttings of geraniums and fuchsias
and plant winter flowering bulbs, such as hyacinths in pots or bowls
for next season. Check that bulbs are free from soft areas
particularly around the neck and base. Once planted, the bulbs
should be placed in a sheltered part of the garden and covered with
a thin layer of sand before adding a layer of garden soil, peat or
chipped bark. Lateral buds of chrysanthemums (except sprays) should
be removed, leaving one main large bud to form on each shoot.
Fruit
and vegetables - Mid Summer
Make successive sowing of vegetables to keep up constant supply of
fresh produce. Summer salads such as lettuce and radish can still be
sown to produce a succession of crops. Sow Japanese onions and other
suitable maincrop varieties to produce large bulbs for harvesting
the following summer. Cover peas with netting to protect the crop
from birds. Plant out winter maturing cabbages and continue to sow
spring cabbage. When preparing the seed bed for vegetable growing
apply a dressing of a balanced fertilizer such as growmore and water
thoroughly in dry spells. A general mulch of peat, bark or compost
can help to retain water and suppress weeds. Weeds will quickly
outgrow vegetable crops if allowed to develop so hoe between the
rows when necessary. Harvest potatoes and
radish as soon as they are ready and mulch strawberries with straw,
to minimise slug damage. Thin out apples to get better and larger
fruits. Cut back the new shoots on cordon apples and pears to a
point three leaves from the main stem. Prune cordon-trained
gooseberries and red and white currents by reducing their side
shoots to five leaves from the main stem. Work in rose fertilizer
around soft fruit bushes and drape raspberries and strawberries with
netting to prevent birds from eating the fruit. New strawberries can
be planted now to get well established for next year. Strawberry
beds that are more than three years old can be dug up and replanted.
The
lawn - Mid Summer
Rake the lawn with a plastic-toothed rake to remove any dead grass
and debris that may have accumulated. The lawn will also require
watering in mid summer if it is to retain it's colour and vigour.
Feeding can continue, but should be delayed if very hot to avoid
scorching. However, if the weather is wet, spike the areas which
tend to collect water. A garden fork can be used, pushing the tines
into the soil as far as possible. Alternatively a hollow tine fork
will actually pull a 'plug' out of the soil, thus allowing more air
to permeate and improving drainage.
Houseplants
- Mid Summer
Buy 'prepared' hyacinth bulbs and plant in pots to have in flower
by Christmas. Continue to feed house plants once a week and mist
them with water. Before going on holiday, stand houseplants on a
piece of capillary matting placed on the draining board with one end
in a sink of water.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Mid Summer
Take leaf cuttings of African violets, Begonia rex, streptocarpus
and gloxinias and pot up existing rooted cuttings. Tomato plants
should have the growing tips pinched out to encourage development of
existing trusses. Remove the male flowers regularly from frame
cucumbers as fertilized fruit will taste bitter - All-female F1
hybrids overcome this problem. Ventilate whenever possible to keep
temperatures down even at night. Spray peaches, nectarines and
apricots with tepid water each day. Feed all plants in active growth
once a week.
General
- Mid Summer
Water hanging baskets at least once a day. Trim all hedges and
shear off faded flower stems on lavenders. Trim back leggy plants to
make them more compact and produce more flowers. Prune weigela and
philadelphus, cutting out completely a portion of older wood. Prune
rambling roses by cutting away entire stems that have finished
flowering. Then tie in the new growth. Prune gooseberries by cutting
away crowded shoots in the middle of the bush. |
| Summer |
N hemisphere ...
June solstice (around 21st) - Vernal equinox (around 23rd September)
S hemisphere ...
December solstice (around 22nd) - Vernal equinox (around 21st March)
|
Early
Summer
Mid
Summer
Late
Summer |
The
ornamental garden - Late Summer
Daffodils, crocuses, colchicums, hyacinths, scillas and cyclamen
can be planted outdoors now, but delay tulip bulb planting until mid
autumn to avoid premature, frost prone growth. Bulbs such as
hyacinths, tulips and dwarf iris for winter forcing can also be
potted now in pots or bowls and kept in the dark in cool conditions
below 4ºC (40ºF). Lift any tender bulbs or tubers from the
borders before the weather begins to get cold. These include
gladioli, begonias, canna, and eucomis. Prune rambling roses and
remove all dead, diseased, weak or unproductive wood back to it's
source. Take healthy side shoots back to within three buds of the
main stem. The aim should be to encourage new growth from the base
which will flower more vigorously. Cut down the stems of perennial
plants when the flowering has finished and clear leaves and debris
away. Hardy annuals can be sown now directly into a well prepared
bed in the open ground. This is the time for replanting tubs and
containers for autumn colour - use pansies, evergreen shrubs,
conifers and autumn flowering bulbs. Plant double and single
flowered primroses and polyanthus in moist soil in a lightly shaded
position. By choosing appropriate plants, basket and container
displays can be maintained throughout the autumn and early winter.
Once summer bedding plants begin to fade, they can be removed to
make way for plants such as universal pansies which can flower from
early autumn through to late spring the following year.
Autumn/winter flowering heathers produce, pink, white or purple
flowers and can be set against the evergreen foliage of dwarf
conifers and ivy. Autumn flowering crocus, colchicum and nerines
grow well in tubs and pots on the patio. Many alpines lend
themselves to culture in large pots, troughs and sinks but clip the
spent flowers off and surround the plants with gravel or grit to
stop them rotting in wet weather.
Fruit
and vegetables - Late Summer
Harvest the last of the pumpkins, marrows, squashes and outdoor
tomatoes and store in a cool dry airy spot. The tomato haulms should
be destroyed rather than composted as they are tough and will be
slow to rot. Spinach can be sown now for picking as spring greens,
so can turnip varieties such as Green-Top White and Green Globe.
Protect spinach, lettuce and French beans with cloches. Spring
cabbages such as Pixie or Durham Early can be transplanted into
their cropping positions. Onions maturing in early summer must be
sown now if they are to establish before the onset of Winter. Summer
varieties which have been drying can be lifted when ready and
stored. Autumn raspberries should be cropping now and summer
fruiting varieties can be pruned back. To do this the canes which
cropped this season should first be untied and then cut off at
ground level, leaving those new growths produced during the season
to grow and fruit next year.
The
lawn - Late Summer
Begin preparing the lawn for the winter with the application of a
high potash fertilizer such as autumn lawn food. This is also an
ideal time for sowing or turfing a new lawn. To remove moss use a
combined fertilizer and moss killer then after two weeks the lawn
should be raked to remove the dead moss and any thatch which built
up in the grass. The ground will then be ready for aerating. This
can be done with an ordinary garden fork or hollow tine fork, and
the aim is to provide entry points for oxygen, water and nutrients.
Mowing should continue as regularly as possible, but the height of
cut should be slowly increased to avoid damage as the autumn
approaches.
Houseplants
- Late Summer
Take cuttings of flowering and foliage plants.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Late Summer
Pot up freesia corms for winter flowers. Sow cyclamen and
schizanthus. When salads such as tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers
have finished cropping they can be removed and the area cleaned of
crop debris. Old growing bags can be lifted and spread over the
garden as a mulch or soil conditioner. Many plants can be sown under
the protection of the greenhouse and conservatory for early blooms
next year including cowslips, primroses and pot cyclamen. Summer
sown freesias and fuchsias, geraniums and helichrysum that have
spent the summer outside in the garden should be brought in before
frosts begin. Shading should be removed as the days shorten to make
the most of available light and the glass thoroughly cleaned. Put up
bubble polythene insulation and check that heaters are in working
order for the first cold nights of autumn.
General
- Late Summer
Raise tubs and containers for autumn use off the ground to ensure
that drainage is not restricted. Bricks, slabs or terra-cotta 'feet'
can be used. For autumn planting always ensure that the container
has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Terra-cotta
containers should also be soaked in water before use as their
natural absorbency will otherwise draw water from the compost once
planted. In the case of baskets, old moss should be replaced and
liners washed. Reduce the height of perennials that have finished
flowering and give hedges a final trim. Check supports of new trees
and make sure ties are firm but not too tight. |
|
| Autumn |
N hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
S hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
|
Early
Autumn
Mid
Autumn
Late
Autumn |
The
ornamental garden - Early Autumn
Plant new azaleas and rhododendrons in well prepared soil. Support
new trees, conifers and shrubs with stakes and ties. Wrap the stems
of tender trees and shrubs in sacking or similar material and check
the ties to ensure that they can withstand winter winds. Sweet Peas
sown now either in seed trays or pots will produce much earlier
flowers and stronger plants than those sown in the spring. Many
herbaceous perennials such as Alchemilla (Lady's Mantle), Michaelmas
Daisy, Aquilegia (Colombine), Dicentra (Bleeding Heart), Peony,
Convallaria (Lily-of-the-Valley) and very many more, can be
propagated by division. This is a method of propagation which
involves splitting the existing root into separate clumps, each of
which then becomes a new plant. Most herbaceous plants can simply be
lifted from the soil and levered apart. Plants such as Iris which
form thick fleshy roots or rhizomes, may need to be carefully cut
with a knife, ensuring that each piece of thick root has a healthy
bud attached. Take the opportunity to cut out any unhealthy material
before replanting. Apart from increasing stock, many herbaceous
perennials benefit from division as they are often rejuvenated by
the lifting and trimming process and flower much more readily the
following year. Plant compact alpines in shallow containers and
cover the soil surface with alpine grit. Now is the time to move
non-hardy plants in pots and tubs into the greenhouse or close to
the wall of a warm building where they will receive some shelter.
Cover the root area of fuchsia and delicate perennials such as
penstemons with bark chips as insulation against frost. Annual
plants should be pulled up and discarded. Herbaceous plants should
be cut back to ground level. Continue to plant spring flowering
bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses and hyacinths, but wait until next
month before planting tulips. Heathers may also be planted now.
Plant biennials into their flowering positions ready for the new
season, giving them time to establish before the onset of poor
weather. Thin annuals such as candytuft and cornflower - overcrowded
seedlings are a target for diseases. Cut back rose bushes by a third
to reduce wind rock damage and shorten the long stems of Lavateras
and Buddleias.
Fruit
and vegetables - Early Autumn
Crop anything that is ready to harvest before it becomes damaged by
frost. Bare areas of soil can then be rough dug to allow the frost
to work on it and to break it down. At the same time manure, garden
compost or peat can be added to improve the structure of the soil
and aid drainage. Onions should be lifted when properly dry and
stored in a cool dry place, preferably hung to allow air to
circulate around them. Winter hardy lettuces can be sown in October
for cropping in the spring and winter cabbages can be transplanted
into final cropping positions. Protect winter greens with netting
and pot up a few mint, parsley, sage and marjoram plants for winter
use. If any tomatoes remain these should be picked and used. To
encourage green tomatoes to turn red, place tomatoes in a drawer
with an apple - the ethylene gas from the apple will speed up the
process of tomato ripening.
The
lawn - Early Autumn
Treat any remaining moss whilst the lawn is still actively growing,
then scarify the lawn about a week later using a spring tine rake.
After raking, aerate or spike the lawn using a garden fork or hollow
tine aerator. This will allow air and water a free passage to the
areas where it provides the most benefit. If the soil structure
needs improving apply a top dressing of peat on sandy soils or a
mixture of peat and sharp sand on heavy clay soils. Continue to mow,
but keep the blades high to avoid placing stress on the turf should
the weather turn frosty. Sweep off worm casts before mowing. Give
the lawn an autumn lawn feed which is high in potash.
Houseplants
- Early Autumn
Remove any dead leaves or flowers to avoid mould. Reduce the
watering but keep feeding once a month especially if the plants are
growing in a soilless compost.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Early Autumn
Keep the greenhouse well ventilated to avoid the risk of diseases.
Clean the glass and take the opportunity to clean the structure
before the greenhouse becomes too crowded. Ensure that heaters are
working correctly and that thermostats, where fitted, are accurate.
General
- Early Autumn
Many herbaceous perennials will flower earlier if planted in pots
and kept in the greenhouse until the spring. check wall supports of
climbers and tie in new stems securely. Clean and dry barbecues,
plastic chairs and tables before storing in a shed or under a
plastic cover. Stand wooden furniture on hard paving and scrub the
algae off wrought iron, cast aluminium and wooden furniture.
|
| Autumn |
N hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
S hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
|
Early
Autumn
Mid
Autumn
Late
Autumn |
The
ornamental garden - Mid Autumn
Now is the time for planting tulips as the likelihood that early
growth may be damaged by frosts should be over, the lower
temperatures should keep them in a dormant state until the spring.
Cover the tulips with 8-12cm of soil. Complete planting of biennials
and herbaceous perennials as soon as possible and prepare the ground
for sowing hardy annuals in the spring. Some herbaceous plants can
be divided now such as flag iris, hemerocallis (day lily), geranium
(crane's bill), convallaria (lily-of-the-valley) and many others.
Cut back herbaceous plants blackened by frost but leave ornamental
grasses and those with attractive seed heads such as achilleas.
Bare-rooted deciduous hedges and other deciduous species can be
planted now provided the soil is not water-logged. Bare-rooted
evergreens are best left until early spring before planting although
container grown plants can be planted at any time. This is also the
best time of the year to plant new roses. When purchasing bare-root
roses, ensure that the roots have not dried out and the plant has
not started to grow prematurely. The plant should have at least
three strong shoots with a strong fibrous root system. Plant the
roses soon after purchase or heal-in until a suitable site has been
prepared. Permanent planting should also be delayed if the ground is
too dry, waterlogged or frozen. Good preparation now will lead to
healthy long lasting roses Check forced bulbs in plunge beds or cold
frames which were prepared in late summer. These should have
produced some growth and shoots should be about 4-5cm length. At
this point they can be moved into cool conditions indoors or in the
greenhouse as long as temperatures do not exceed 10ºC.
Fruit
and vegetables - Mid Autumn
Hardy varieties of broad beans can be sown now and will crop in
early June, however a sheltered site should be chosen if possible to
reduce losses due to the weather. Cloches will provide protection in
the early stages. Also complete sowings of lettuce under glass and
force chicory. Rhubarb can be planted in heavily manured soil.
Whilst there is still some warmth in the soil fruit bushes, canes
and trees can be planted. Pruning of all but stone fruits can take
place as soon as the leaves have fallen. Fruit in store should be
inspected on a regular basis removing any showing rot, so that it
does not spread to other fruit. Remove a quarter of the stems on
blackcurrants at just 2cm from ground level. Prune back the
sideshoots to 5cm on red and white currant and gooseberry bushes.
The
lawn - Mid Autumn
Treat a poorly growing lawn with a slow release fertilizer. At this
time of year keep the mower blades at medium height as low cutting
may lead to damage in combination with heavy frosts. Allow the dew
to dry before cutting or brush the lawn first. Do not mow whilst
frost is still present on the surface. Grass clippings should be
removed if possible to lessen the risk of disease. Sweep off leaves
and debris regularly and try and keep off the lawn surface as much
as possible particularly during very wet weather. In warm winter
periods grass will continue to grow so be prepared to give it a
moderate cut in the winter months
Houseplants
- Mid Autumn
Continue to feed houseplants once a week and mist them with water.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Mid Autumn
Ensure also that the glass is kept clean, as dirty glass will block
out valuable light at this time of the year. Ventilate on warm days
to reduce the incidence of diseases but remember to close the
ventilators by early afternoon to retain some of the natural heat.
Where vines are being grown, these will require ventilation as often
as possible to harden the growth. In unheated houses containing
tender plants, check the weather forecast and be prepared to cover
plants with newspaper or sacking at short notice, to keep off the
worst of the frost. Grape vines can be pruned as soon as the leaves
have fallen.
General
- Mid Autumn
Repair wooden arches or pergolas while the climbers they are
supporting are dormant. Treat fences, sheds, trellis and pergolas
with wood preservative. Take care not to get preservative on plants.
Cut out dead, diseased and damaged branches from trees. |
| Autumn |
N hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 23rd September) - December solstice (around
22nd)
S hemisphere ...
Autumnal equinox (around 21st March) - June solstice (around 21st)
|
Early
Autumn
Mid
Autumn
Late
Autumn |
The
ornamental garden - Late Autumn
Forced bulbs planted in late summer should be brought into room
temperatures once the shoots have reached 20-22cm in height if they
are to flower at Christmas. However introducing a few pots to the
heat at a time will produce a succession of flowers. Bare rooted and
container grown trees and shrubs can be planted now. Incorporate
some compost into the planting hole, and back-fill with a mixture of
compost and garden soil. Sturdy stakes and ties should be attached
to prevent wind rocking and the damage that this can cause to the
roots of tall or top heavy plants. Protect semi-hardy deciduous
plants with a layer of peat around the roots and lower stem and wrap
the trunks of standard plants with some protection. Tender
evergreens can be protected by erecting a barrier of shade netting
to act as a wind break or by planting hardy species in the vicinity
to provide shelter. Planting next to a wall can give just enough
shelter to enable plants to survive. The wall of the house, if
centrally heated, can retain heat and act as a radiator. Pots and
containers should also be moved near to a warm building. Some herbs
will need protection through the winter months from snow and cold
winds. Cover soil with a protective layer of peat or straw and bring
less hardy species into the greenhouse.
Fruit
and vegetables - Late Autumn
Continue rough digging and allow the frost to break up heavy soil.
Bulky organic material such as moss peat and composted bark can be
added at the same time. The decomposing process of organic material
will bind the soil particles together, encouraging clay soils to
form crumbs and sandy soils to stick together. This not only
improves the structure of the soil but also increases the water and
nutrient holding capacity. Lift late sown carrots and swedes and
store them away from pests and the weather. Crops overwintering in
the soil such as winter cabbage, lettuce and peas can be protected
with slug pellets or slug liquid. Very young crops of peas may need
the protection of a cloche in cold areas to keep off the worst of
the weather.
The
lawn - Late Autumn
Keep off established lawns as much as possible to prevent damage.
If it is not possible to stop using them altogether then try and
take a different path with each journey to avoid compaction. Turfing
can continue - weather permitting, but may have to be delayed during
very wet or cold spells. Sweep off leaves and debris regularly and
watch for signs of diseases. Aeration could still go ahead if not
already completed, provided that the soil is not very wet. Ensure
that equipment is well serviced in preparation for the new season.
Houseplants
- Late Autumn
Most houseplants will be dormant at this time of the year, with
light levels being too low to sustain growth of most species.
Watering should be kept to a minimum at this stage, allowing the
compost to dry out between applications. Feeding of most species is
unnecessary. However some plants will be in full growth, such as
cyclamen, polyanthus, azalea and poinsettia. These will require
feeding with a high potash fertilizer to ensure maximum colour.
Containers of forced bulbs should begin to provide colour now,
having been brought into the warmth of the house. Keep these
regularly watered although not too wet. Feeding will not be required
until flowering is over to help the bulb regain it's strength,
ensuring large flowers next year in the garden.
The
greenhouse and conservatory - Late Autumn
Frost protection will be needed now so heating must be reliable and
capable of maintaining the desired temperature. Be prepared to cover
tender subjects with newspaper or sacking as additional protection.
Whilst most plants will be ticking over, waiting for the warmth of
spring, the greenhouse can still be a colourful place with Christmas
cactus, azalea, cyclamen, forced daffodils, poinsettias and saint
paulias all in flower. Continue to ventilate when possible to reduce
the incidence of disease, closing the windows before late afternoon.
When watering avoid splashing water about unnecessarily to keep
humidity levels as low as possible. Watering and spraying should be
carried out in the morning, giving the leaves time to dry before
nightfall. It is a good time to disinfect the greenhouse structure,
staging, pots and tools.
General
- Late Autumn
Fences can be treated with preservatives now with less chance of
damaging plant growth. |
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